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Let me set the scene... Imagine gently gliding along Kerala's Vembanad Lake, the largest lake in the state, aboard a beautifully rustic Kettuvallam houseboat. The sky was turning every shade of pink, the lake was as calm as glass, and there I was at the front of the boat holding a chilled Kingfisher beer.
What followed was one of the most authentic, relaxing and downright charming experiences I’ve had in a long time.
A bit of boat back story
The Kettuvallam houseboats were once the lorries of Kerala, traditionally used to carry rice, spices and coconuts across the back waters, but with modern roads came redundancy and CGH Earth Experience Hotels, masters of all things eco-friendly and sustainable, swooped in and transformed these wooden wonders into floating havens.
This isn’t five star luxury with gold taps and room service. Oh no, it’s something far better: authentic charm. Picture polished bamboo, coir ropes and woven rattan furnishings. It’s rustic, it’s cosy and it has buckets of character. Add in the warm smiles and exceptional hospitality from the local crew and you’re onto a winner.
The back waters - where life slows down
Vembanad Lake is the beating heart of Kerala's backwater. It's vast, peaceful and lined with individual houses that sit right at the water's edge. As we glided through, life unfolded around us.
Locals were busy with daily chores, some washing clothes or pots at the water's edge; others were paddling in small boats as they fished quietly in the shallows. Birdlife of all descriptions swooped, dived or simply perched everywhere you looked.
In the narrower canals, we spotted toddy collectors, expertly scaling palm trees to tap fresh coconut sap into clay pots. It’s quite the art form and I couldn’t help but be fascinated by their skill.
Toddy: Kerala's curious tipple
Now let’s talk toddy.
This is Kerala's slightly sweet, mildly alcoholic brew made from the sap of coconut palms. It’s tangy, fresh and said to be full of natural goodness.
The locals claim it does wonders for digestion.
The question of course was: should we try it?
I will admit I didn’t on this houseboat trip. The chilled Kingfisher was too tempting, but watching toddy tapping felt like witnessing a tradition passed down through generations.
Next time I might just take the plunge. After all, when in Kerala...
Food worth floating for
Our on-board chef delivered an absolute feast. We had karimeen pollichathu, a pearlspot fish marinated in fragrant spices, wrapped in a banana leaf and grilled; soft lacy appams - fluffy cloud-like pancakes, perfect for scooping up creamy vegetable stews; and giant freshwater prawns, so enormous they could easily pass for lobster - cooked in a buttery spiced curry that I may or may not have had thirds of.
A night like no other
The rhythm of the lake has a magic all of its own. There’s no Wi-Fi, no distractions - just the sound of water gently lapping against the hull. That night, I slept like a baby tucked up in my cabin as the boat rocked me to sleep.
Our houseboat delivered us to Coconut Lagoon, the third phase of our Kerala trip...