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Our flight with SriLankan Airlines was smooth and welcoming, with great service and delicious food. Landing in Columbo, we were greeted by Manjula, our cheerful and endlessly knowledgeable driver who welcomed us with garlands of fresh flowers. His warm smile and constant attentiveness set the tone for the incredible days to come.
Once on the road, chaos returned. Tuktuks, buses and lorries danced their intricate honking ballet, overtaking and squeezing through gaps that didn’t seem to exist. Despite the madness, it somehow worked.
Day 1: On the road to Kandy
Our first day in Sri Lanka took us to Kandy, a city nestled amidst lush greenery and rolling hills. On the way, we visited the Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage, a sanctuary for orphaned elephants.
Pros: This offers a safe haven for elephants that cannot be returned to the wild, and provides visitors the opportunity to see elephants, bathing in the river - a beautiful sight.
Cons: Keepers carry pointed sticks which can be unsettling for some to see, and some elephants are chained, though this is often for safety reasons.
While riding elephants is not allowed at the orphanage, it is still possible elsewhere in Sri Lanka.
By evening, we reached the Earl's Regency Hotel, an elegant property perched in the hillside. The views were stunning, and the buffet dining options were vast, ensuring there was something for everyone.
Day 2: Gems and blue sapphires
Our exploration of Kandy began at the Queen's Hotel, an iconic colonial property with a rich history. Manjula, ever the storyteller, filled us in on its notable guests and the role it played in the city’s history.
Next we visited the Temple of the Tooth, a UNESCO world heritage site. This is a sacred relic with amazing architecture and a spiritual atmosphere.
My highlight of the day was replacing the royal blue sapphire in my ring, which I originally purchased during my first visit to Sri Lanka 15 years ago. Sri Lankan sapphires, renowned for their deep royal blue hue, are among the world's finest and were famously used in Princess Diana’s engagement ring. We also visited a gem museum where we learnt about the intricate processes of mining.
Day 3: Time for tea
The journey into the highlands took us to the Bluefield Tea Gardens, where we saw the entire tea making process, from plucking leaves to packaging. As an Irish lass, it made me very proud to see the 100-year-old Belfast-made drying furnace still in use today.
We travelled onto Nuwara Eliya, known as Little England for its colonial charm. This cool misty town, once a retreat for British colonists, is dotted with tudor style bungalows, mature gardens and a red brick Post Office, straight out of an English countryside painting.
That evening, we stayed at the Golden Ridge Hotel, which was cosy and inviting, with mountain lodge vibes that made it the perfect retreat.
Day 4: The blue train and Yala
The famous blue train - in our case, blue and red - carried us from Nanu Oya to Ella along one of the world's most scenic rail routes. The train wound through misty mountains, lush tea plantations and cascading waterfalls. As I sat by the open doorway - not ever allowed in UK - with the wind rushing past, it felt like being part of a travel documentary.
Reunited with Manjula, we drove towards Yala. The approach to the hotel in the dark was a treat in itself, as a sloth bear slowly crossed the road and then casually lumbered into the bushes - a surreal and thrilling moment.
At Cinnamon Wild Yala, dinner was delicious, but the highlight was being escorted to our bungalow and spotting a wild elephant, just 30 metres away peaceably munching on trees. We were really staying in their domain.
Day 5: The ultimate safari
The day began at dawn with a jeep safari into Yala National Park, Sri Lanka’s premier wildlife sanctuary. The park's diverse landscapes, open plains, dense forests and shimmering lagoons were a perfect backdrop for all the wildlife.
We saw buffalo, deer, peacocks, painted storks and leopards lounging lazily in trees and so much more. The elephants stole the show, roaming free in their natural habitat - it’s the only way to see them.
Then there were the monkeys - one cheeky fellow climbed into a jeep and attempted to steal Jonathan’s snacks. His triumphant look quickly turned to disappointment when he realised the packet was empty.
Top tip for safari goers, always carry cash (no ATMs), hand sanitiser and toilet paper - essential for a day in the wild.
Day 6-8: Christmas in Galle
We arrived in Galle, a historic coastal city famous for its UNESCO listed Dutch fort. We stopped for a brief visit and refreshment before travelling 10 minutes to our hotel by the beach.
Christmas Eve was magical at the Radisson Blu Resort. The gala dinner featured oysters, prawns, crab, curries and roast turkey. We had live music and carols from the local choir.
On Christmas Day, we began with a leisurely seafood lunch at a restaurant beside the hotel. In the evening, we ventured to a local bar for gin and tonics, watching the sunset over the ocean, before heading back to the hotel for a rooftop nightcap under the stars.
Day 9: Boxing Day and reflecting on the tsunami
On Boxing Day, it was 20 years since the 2004 tsunami tragedy that deeply affected Sri Lanka. At breakfast, the hotel observed a two-minute silence and Manjula shared stories of the how the tsunami devastated the coast.
In the afternoon, we returned to Galle fort in a Tuktuk and spent hours enjoying the numerous historic buildings and cobbled streets full of shops, restaurants and bars.
Our tuktuk driver, Rukman, was such a lovely man and a true gent. He provided us with not only an insight into the area but was ready and waiting for us for the return journey. Rukman was a regular tuktuk driver - not part of a tour company - and was a credit to his trade. When my clients visit Galle, I have Rukman's number so they too can experience Rukman's VIP service!)
Dinner was at a seafood restaurant, where the owner proudly shared stories of how he had restored his property after the tsunami.
Day 10: Our last day
Our final day began with a relaxed morning by the pool, and then we drove to Columbo to stay at the Radisson, which overlooked a railway line and the sea.
Our final drink in a local bar gave us a moment to reflect on an amazing holiday before our long flight home
Want to know more about Sri Lanka and all it can offer? I’m Nikki at NC Travel and I’ve been there, so I can help you. I’m with you every step of the way...